Troubleshooting

DIG Corp.'s 500 series DC controllers are one part of a system of connected components consisting of a controller (single or multi-station), DC latching solenoids, wire & wire connectors, and hydraulic valves. A failure of one or more of these components can cause a valve to fail to open, fail to close, or leak (externally or internally). It is recommended to use a process of elimination to determine which component(s) is the cause of the failure. Before beginning, make sure that there are batteries installed in the controller and that the display, buttons and solenoid(s) are functioning properly.

Troubleshooting: 710, 740 & 746 Controllers

• Before Troubleshooting Please note
• Batteries should be removed if the irrigation controller will not be operated for a prolonged period.
• Under normal usage, batteries (alkaline) will last for a minimum of 1 year to a maximum of 2 years.
• It is good operating practice to replace old batteries with new ones at the start of the irrigation season.
• In-line valve recommended operating water pressure range: 10-80 PSI.
• In-line valve operating pressure range: 10-150 PSI.
• Actuator recommended operating water pressure range: 25-80 PSI.
• Controller Issues

Problem	Cause	Solution
Opens in manual mode but not automatically.	Duration has been set but all start times are off. -Set start time(s) in starts mode No water days have been set. -Set water days or cyclical frequency Controller is set to water ONCE only. -Re-program frequency mode Rain off mode is active -De-activate rain off mode by pushing and holding down the minus button for five seconds.
Screen displays "50FF" when manual or programmed run is attempted.	Rain sensor has been activated or improper sensor wire splice. -Inspect installed rain sensor for proper operation and replace if needed. -Inspect yellow sensor wire splices and re-splice with waterproof wire connectors if necessary. Normally Closed Sensor Use a Normally open sensor Yellow sensor wires on irrigation controller are making contact with each other. -Insure that yellow sensor wires are not making contact with each other.
Screen freezing up or buttons not functioning.	Controller may need to be reset. -Remove the 9 volt battery from controller for 30 minutes then reinsert the battery and program. Weak battery -Replace battery
Display is not fully readable.	Faulty controller -Replace controller
Waters at wrong time or day of the week.	Current time/day is not correct. Set correct current time/day of week.
No Display	Incorrect battery type. (Non-alkaline) -Use only alkaline 9 volt battery. No battery installed -Install name brand alkaline type battery. Faulty controller -Replace controller

• 3/4", 1",1, 1 1/2", 2" Inline valves

Problem	Cause	Solution
Inline valve does not open during automatic or “manual” operation via irrigation controller.	Water supply is shut off -Insure water supply is turned on and water is flowing to irrigation valve. Flow control on valve turned to far clockwise. -Turn flow control counter clockwise. Valve flow control is shut down. -Open flow control Faulty solenoid splice(s) -Remove splices and re-splice using water proof wire connectors. Faulty solenoid -Replace solenoid Solenoid out-bound flush/bleed port or solenoid adapter ports blocked with debris. -Clean solenoid flush/bleed port of debris. Diaphragm or valve bonnet orientation inside valve incorrect. -Remove valve bonnet and inspect the diaphragm orientation. (Diaphragm has 7, 1/8 in holes around the outside rim, 6 holes line up with the screw holes the last 7th hole lines up with the tab just below solenoid on the valve bonnet. In addition the tab on the valve bonnet should line up with the flush/bleed port in the center of the output side of the valve.) Weak battery or no battery. -Install or replace alkaline 9 volt Battery.
Inline valve fails to close.	Outlet flow may be to low. -Increase your flow rate by adding drip emitters or micro sprinklers. Valve is installed backwards. -Reverse valve so arrow points away from water source. Manual handle is in open position. -Turn manual handle to the right to AUTO position. Solenoid plunger is missing. -Unscrew solenoid and install plunger. Plunger is installed upside down. -Unscrew solenoid and remove plunger, invert it, and re-install so rubber tip is exposed, spring end goes in first. Valve diaphragm is torn or failed. -Replace diaphragm Solenoid/valve adapter not tight on valve bonnet. -Tighten solenoid/valve adapter snugly to valve bonnet. Valves bleed screw open. -Close valve bleed screw. The valve or solenoid/valve adapters inbound port blocked. -Flush and clear inbound port. Faulty solenoid. -Replace solenoid. Debris stuck in diaphragm seat or diaphragm bleed port partially blocked. -Remove bonnet and diaphragm and clean diaphragm seat and bleed port. Missing or broken diaphragm valve spring. -Install or replace diaphragm valve spring. Crack in seat of valve body. -Replace valve body. Solenoid latched in the open position -Perform a manual open and close on irrigation controller from the manual run screen.

• Actuators, 710-011, R710DC-013

Problem	Cause	Solution
Actuator does not close.	Actuator is rotated too far counter-clockwise. -Adjust flow by turning the actuator body slowly clockwise 1/4 turn at a time until valve closes. Debris stuck in seat-washer. -Remove actuator from valve clean or replace seat-washer. Seat-washer body may be cracked. -Replace seat-washer and housing. Seat-washer could be worn. Years of use and/or high pressure can cause a groove to form in seat-washer. -The 3/4" seat-washer can be flipped over or replaced, 1" seat-washer must be replaced. 1" seat washer is installed or seat washer is upside down. -Use larger seat washer or flip seat-washer over, the recession in center 1" seat-washer must be facing down to accept seat screw. Bad or missing "O" ring #3 above seat-washer housing. -Replace "O" ring #3. Static pressure is above 80 PSI. -Install a mainline pressure regulator. Debris trapped inside actuator body. -Shut off water supply, remove solenoid, open water supply momentarily and flush out solenoid ports. Reinstall solenoid. Open water supply and test manually. Faulty plunger, the plunger tip may have debris imbedded in rubber. -Replace plunger. The actuator is adjusted to far counter clockwise. -While controller is not calling for irrigation, adjust actuator by turning the actuator body slowly clockwise in 1/4 turn increments time until valve closes. Plunger is installed upside down or missing. -Unscrew solenoid. Remove plunger and re-install with rubber tip exposed. Actuator is rotated too far clockwise. -Rotate actuator counter-clockwise.
Actuator does not open during automatic operation or during "manual" operation via irrigation controller.	Water supply turned off. -Turn on water supply. Weak battery. -Replace battery. Incorrect battery type. (Non-alkaline) -Change battery to a name brand alkaline type battery. Solenoid not spliced to controller wires. -Splice solenoid wires to controller wires. Poor solenoid wire splice. -Cut off old solenoid splices, Re-splice solenoid wires using waterproof wire splices and fresh newly unsheathed wires. Actuator is out of adjustment by being turned too far clockwise. -Rotate actuator counter-clockwise. Actuator ports are blocked. -Shut off water supply, remove solenoid, open water supply momentarily and flush out solenoid ports. Reinstall solenoid. Open water supply and test manually. Faulty solenoid. -Replace solenoid. Faulty/clogged actuator -Replace actuator
Water discharges from anti-siphon cap.	Heads are above valve. -Raise valve 6" above highest emitter or use angle valve. Anti-siphon float is missing or damaged. -Check or replace float. Valve is installed backwards. -Reverse valve. Actuator may be out of adjustment. Rotate actuator 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Insects or debris in anti-siphon cap Check float and spinal for foreign matter.

Troubleshooting: 540 and 560 battery operated controllers

• All of the checks mentioned above apply in addition to the following:
• Identify which valve is causing the problem by locating the yellow numbered marker on the valves solenoid wire
• Check the three wire splices for the valve in question, and verify that red is connected to red, white-to-white, and black-to-black, and that the connections are not touching a wire of another color.
• Verify that waterproof wire connectors are used, and that the wires are not corroded.
• Select the valve in question in the valve select mode, and then test the individual valve and verify that it opens and closes properly in the manual mode.

Troubleshooting: 510 battery operated controllers

• Valve fails to close:
• Verify that the water supply valve is fully open, and that the static pressure at the valve is greater than 10 psi.
• Verify that the flow control handle on the valve is at least half way open
• Verify that the manual lever is in the vertical (auto) position
• Verify that the puppet is in place in the bayonet, and the spring side is down
• Verify that the "O" ring #2 is in place in the hole under the bottom of the bayonet
• Verify that the flow rate of the system is greater than the minimum flow rate for the valve
• Verify that the hole in the diaphragm is clear an not blocked, and that the diaphragm is not torn or stretched or damaged
• Verify that the ports leading to and away from the solenoid cavity are clear and not blocked. The ports are located in the valve bonnet (2), and the valve body.
• Verify that the solenoid "clicks" when activated in the manual mode.
• Verify that the valve opens when the manual lever is turned to the on position, and that the valve closes when the lever is returned to the auto position
• Verify that the solenoid wires are not frayed, nicked or cut
• Valve fails to open:
• Verify that the water supply valve is fully open, and that the static pressure at the valve is greater than 10 psi.
• Verify that the flow control handle on the valve is at least half way open
• Verify that the manual lever is in the vertical (auto) position
• Verify that the ports leading to and away from the solenoid cavity are clear and not blocked. The ports are located in the valve bonnet (2), and the valve body.
• Verify that the solenoid wires are not frayed, nicked or cut
• Verify that the valve opens when the manual lever is turned to the on position, and that the valve closes when the lever is returned to the auto position
• Valve leaks externally:
• Verify that "O" ring #1 is in place around base of solenoid and not damaged or crimped
• Verify that bayonet is not cross threaded or stripped
• Verify that female threads in solenoid cavity are not damaged or stripped
• Verify that bayonet is not cracked or damaged
• Valve leaks internally:
• Remove diaphragm and check diaphragm seat for debris or damage. Clean diaphragm and remove debris if possible, if not replace diaphragm.

Troubleshooting: 510.011 battery operated controlle

All of the checks mentioned above apply in addition to the following:
• Valve fails to close:
• Verify that the actuator is not rotated too far counter-clockwise
• Verify that the correct seat-washer is installed on the actuator for the valve to be converted (see owners manual)
• Verify that the main seat screw is tight, and that the seat washer is in place in the seat washer body.
• Verify that "O" ring #3 is in place above the seat washer body
• Valve fails to open:
• Verify that the actuator is not rotated too far clockwise
• Verify that the orifice in the main seat screw is clear and not blocked