Troubleshooting
DIG Corp.'s 500 series DC controllers are one part of a system of connected components consisting of a controller (single or multi-station), DC latching solenoids, wire & wire connectors, and hydraulic valves. A failure of one or more of these components can cause a valve to fail to open, fail to close, or leak (externally or internally). It is recommended to use a process of elimination to determine which component(s) is the cause of the failure. Before beginning, make sure that there are batteries installed in the controller and that the display, buttons and solenoid(s) are functioning properly.
Valve fails to close:
- Verify that the water supply valve is fully open, and that the static pressure at the valve is greater than 10 psi.
- Verify that the flow control handle on the valve is at least half way open
- Verify that the manual lever is in the vertical (auto) position
- Verify that the puppet is in place in the bayonet, and the spring side is down
- Verify that the "O" ring #2 is in place in the hole under the bottom of the bayonet
- Verify that the flow rate of the system is greater than the minimum flow rate for the valve
- Verify that the hole in the diaphragm is clear an not blocked, and that the diaphragm is not torn or stretched or damaged
- Verify that the ports leading to and away from the solenoid cavity are clear and not blocked. The ports are located in the valve bonnet (2), and the valve body.
- Verify that the solenoid "clicks" when activated in the manual mode.
- Verify that the valve opens when the manual lever is turned to the on position, and that the valve closes when the lever is returned to the auto position
- Verify that the solenoid wires are not frayed, nicked or cut
Valve fails to open:
- Verify that the water supply valve is fully open, and that the static pressure at the valve is greater than 10 psi.
- Verify that the flow control handle on the valve is at least half way open
- Verify that the manual lever is in the vertical (auto) position
- Verify that the ports leading to and away from the solenoid cavity are clear and not blocked. The ports are located in the valve bonnet (2), and the valve body.
- Verify that the solenoid wires are not frayed, nicked or cut
- Verify that the valve opens when the manual lever is turned to the on position, and that the valve closes when the lever is returned to the auto position
Valve leaks externally:
- Verify that "O" ring #1 is in place around base of solenoid and not damaged or crimped
- Verify that bayonet is not cross threaded or stripped
- Verify that female threads in solenoid cavity are not damaged or stripped
- Verify that bayonet is not cracked or damaged
Valve leaks internally:
- Remove diaphragm and check diaphragm seat for debris or damage. Clean diaphragm and remove debris if possible, if not replace diaphragm.
All of the checks mentioned above apply in addition to the following:
Valve fails to close:
- Verify that the actuator is not rotated too far counter-clockwise
- Verify that the correct seat-washer is installed on the actuator for the valve to be converted (see owners manual)
- Verify that the main seat screw is tight, and that the seat washer is in place in the seat washer body.
- Verify that "O" ring #3 is in place above the seat washer body
Valve fails to open:
- Verify that the actuator is not rotated too far clockwise
- Verify that the orifice in the main seat screw is clear and not blocked
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